Pattern Review: Merchant and Mills Harlene Dungarees.

28th June 2023

If you’ve not heard of the Merchant and Mills Harlenes’, then let me introduce you. These are a helacious pair of practical, hardy and oh so comfy dungarees. Or Overalls, whichever you prefer, I’m up to my 4th pair.

Merchant and Mills, founded in 2010, have such a reputation for producing accurate, high quality sewing patterns, fabrics and notions. The packaging is satisfyingly what I’d call cute utilitarian. Don’t get me started on their fabric, it’s not often in my budget, but for the few pieces I have, wow. Its delish.

My latest make is a pair of Harlenes made up in 'curtain fabric'. Of all the fabrics I could have chosen to go with, why did I go with curtain fabric? Well to start with, this Kirsten Katz Tulip fabric from Spotlight (our local big brand haberdashery store) was in my stash. Initially purchased to re-upholster the dinette seats in our vintage caravan (it's not just for curtains), I changed my mind about its suitability. I just couldn’t bear to be ‘that’ mum on holidays, its draining... the constant, “watch out, don’t spill your drink, use a napkin- not the seat, get that dog off…” It’s exhausting just imagining it, let alone in actuality and I would sound cranky all the time. The smarter me opted instead to go with a more kid and dog friendly fabric option for the caravan, leaving me with a few metres of a heavy weight cotton canvas just waiting for a new project.

How many labels is too many?

I’ve made a couple pairs of the Harlenes now, these babies are not a quick and dirty sew, so sewer beware they will take some time to complete. They have oodles of top stitching and are quite labour intensive. The Harlenes have some super nice construction details, like trimming down seam allowances to reduce bulk, and you are supported through the make with instructions that are just spot on.

Being my 4th pair, I knew what I was getting myself into, hence why they sat cut out and waiting (just under a month) for my mood to be right. I do have a bad habit of cutting out projects and popping them into the ‘to do’ pile… (which might never get done). Also, I knew exactly what I had gotten myself into, there was no novelty here to trigger the hyperfocus state I am capable of. Thankfully the fabric is so super cute, and I had a pink contrast top stitching set up on my other machine which made the sew a lot more efficient. The novelty of a second machine set up ready to topstitch and the colourful tulip fabric encouraged me to complete this make. (Novelty IYKYK.)

Capital Hill Brewing, IPA. Not a bad drop.

The Harlenes are worth the effort, to slow down and take your time; this is not a natural state for me. So, while I get that starting them caused me some anxiety, I got there in the end and am rewarded with a well-made garment (even if I do say so myself), that makes me happy to wear.

Let’s talk fit, my current measurements are Bust 110cm, Waist 87, Hip 108cm, putting me in between the 16 & 18 for the waist and hips, and the 18 & 20 for the bust. Now my measurements may have been similar this time last year, but I’m not sure.

I made my first ever pair up, no toile in a straight 18, and had so much fabric pooling in the low back, and the legs were super baggy. Now this is what I love about sewing, you can customise your make to fit your aesthetic. Not try to meld yourself into an aesthetic or fit that might not work for you.

So, the back darts were deepened, I narrowed the leg, (the 18 was just too baggy for my tastes), took in the center back seam and made appropriate adjustments to the back bib. I have a hella sway back. I also scooped quite a bit out of the butt curve. After all the changes, I more than likely made up between the size 14 and 16, using a 10mm seam allowance at the hips, increasing that to a 15mm through the knees and ankles.

The measurement charts of the Harlenes leave a bit of guess work, say as compared to the Closet Core Blanca flight suit (which is super comprehensive), so a toile wouldn’t go astray. I consider my 1st pair a wearable toile, just utilising my super awesome fabric.

Yes, I made a matching hat. Roz, Kaits mum was lucky these did not fit me. I doubt I could have resisted keeping them for myself.

My 2nd pair I made for Kait’s mum. When she was over from Canada, she tried on my Harlenes and fell in love. They really are that good. Roz jumped onto the Maai Design website and chose a See You at Six cotton canvas ‘florarium’. Couldn’t fault the fabric nor the service from Maai Design. Kait continued to be patient, as her mum’s fabric choice triggered a hyperfocus moment and while I cut out both pairs at the same time, her mums got sewn up 1st.

I cut Kait’s and her mums out in the size 14, then did a similar butt curve as my first pair, narrowed the center back seam and deepened the darts, with the corresponding back bib adjustments.

Kaits Harlenes received a special KATM x Claire Ritchie label.

Kait’s seam allowance was for 10mm (if you narrow the S/A, be prepared to baste the pocket guard within the 10mm S/A), where her mums in the floral was the standard 15mm. While I can get both pairs of the size 14 on, they are not a fit I am comfy with, those suckers be toight! (they’re Not sized for me though, so that was to be expected.)

My current pair of Harlenes in the Kirsten Katz Tulip fabric, found me adding an extra button to the side, going from two to three buttons. This is a personal preference, I just find that a bit of the fabric pokes through and it irritates me, easy enough just to poke it back through, but it feels like an unnecessary extra step when dressing. More than likely this is in fact caused by the slimming down of the leg. Now if you look at the button placket, you notice that mine pulls forward- more than likely I've cut the wrong size for me. I've made so many adjustments, so while I'm pretty sure I cut the wrong size, if your happy to go with it, like I am, then it's all good. (the busy print doesn't hurt)

"I'm probably thinking about sewing."

I use the Kylie and the machine hardware packs, which I cannot recommend enough, for all of my Harlenes. I also add a fabric interfacing to where the button hardware goes. On my 1st pair of Harlenes, the hardware managed to pull out and create a hole on the side opening.

A make these days is not complete without some cute labels! My niece was chuffed with the koala tag from Kylie and the Machine, Koala’s are her favourite marsupial, shouts out to H for helping take some the photos for this blog post.

My 1st and 3rd pair of Harlenes were made up in a heavy cotton drill, ‘dusty rose’, from Maai Design. This fabric is 302gms with no stretch. Such a great fabric to work with, the only exception being my sewing machine. It struggled, especially with the buttonholes. Since my first pair, I’ve invested in a (low-cost) ex floor model ‘heavy duty’ labelled sewing machine. Best idea ever, while its not at all a sophisticated sewing machine, it sews through the layers of fabric like butter.

Of course we are both wearing out Merry People Gumboots.

My friend Kait liked my dusty rose pair so much, we had to settle on a trade-off. I seriously thought I was going to have to put one of those shop alarm systems on mine, for fear that I’d wake up one day and they’d be missing!

I provided my sewing skills, making her her very own pair of Harlenes and she sourced me a laptop, which enabled me to launch my blog. This Chicka is hella good at getting a great buy, more importantly she is also incredibly patient.

You see she did have to wait for a teeny tiny little bit for her pair… my bad. (Come on 4 months isn’t so long a wait...is it ?)

How does this heavy curtain fabric go, you may very well ask? Is my movement in any way restricted with the non-stretch fabric and the narrowed tapered leg?

Absolutely no restriction at all, not only is there still enough crotch depth for sitting and bending, but they’re also just so comfy. I spent O’s entire 7th birthday party on the weekend, riding my blades around. I mean I spent over 5hours blades on, I served food, mucked around with the kids and basically had a very fun time. So, yep, the fabric worked well for this make.

Another key change I made this time round sewing up the Harlenes, was the adjustment of the front bib pocket. To incorporate the size of my iPhone, I moved the top stitching to the side; turns out, also a great fit for a can of beer.

Yes, I drank a beer, while rollerblading around and hosting and no, I did not fall over.

Seven is such a good age, O didn’t mind at all that I wore colourful overalls and my rollerblades, for him that’s just who I am, the other kids, especially the older ones, had so many questions. Why, being the biggest one!! Why indeed!!

Now if you’re also wondering why? I had my rollerblades on at all, O had a ride -skate -scoot Birthday party at the Newcastle foreshore. I was so proud of him, he opted for a small financial donation from his friends in lieu of presents and raised over $300 for Hunter Wildlife Rescue. We had a sausage Sizzle and a wicked homemade Minecraft Birthday Cake.

And I mean for such a fun fundraising/birthday event, why not wear blades and overalls.

The birthday kid, in his new Shirt, "mumma made" of course.

The Harlenes are a “you won’t regret this” sew up, they are a big project though- so take your time. They have excellent instructions, and are a well drafted pattern, (in my self-taught, home sewist view) all the bits and pieces come together smoothly. (I wouldn’t want to sticky tape these in A4 though).

A very colourful, comfy, practical and satisfying sew up.

Welcome to my wardrobe Tulip Harlenes.